Updates:

• v8: 4/18/20 - 1945 Central: hooks closer, double hooks, MaskLookTensioner

• v7: 4/17/20 - 1600 Central: larger trough, chamfered trough edges

I’ve updated the file set with design changes AND now resin printable files. When you download, there should be 5 sized options available for each approach: XL, L, M, S, & XS.

Resin printing:

The only resin available that I know of that CAN work is KeySplint Soft from Keystone Industries. That said, clear resin is by nature the most difficult to print with. So, I urge caution with commiting to this route. Thought it’s EXTREMELY fast (~8minutes comparted to 15-30minutes) it can be challenging. Fortunately, it uses very little resin by volume, so it’s not a signficant finacial risk.

FDM Printing:

I recommend printing this device in PETG or other similarly chemically stable filament if you want the longest lifespace. However, PLA can be used and will mold at lower temperature (even warm water - 3min in the microwave), but will break down more quickly and require more frequent replacement due to material degradation from cleaning products. Using resin is not advised, as it’s not typically moldable. I printed using an 0.6mm nozzle, though other sizes should be fine. I used 4 perimeter layers to minimize infil. I would probably suggest 100% infill. These are thin and do not waste filament.

CAUTION: Heat-molding can be dangerous. Be careful not to burn your skin while applying the mask to your face to mold it. PETG requires higher temperatures and can increase the danger. Use PLA if you are concerned. STILL, be cautious.

I’ve used the Prusa Mk3 to 3D Print. Though other printers should be more than capable of printing this basic design. I have a link below to the highly regarded Creality CR-10 v2.

Sizing:

Measuring from Chin Point to Glabella as shown in the following image (image borrowed from ScienceDirect..com) :

• XL: 122mm

• L: 116mm

• M: 110mm

• S: 104mm

• XS: 98mm

Directions:

1. Warm water in a microwave for 3min.

2. Fully submerge frame in water for 20seconds

3. Remove place mask on 2 parallel blocks approximately 1” from the table, allowing for the Supporting Bridge to sag between.

4. While it’s pliable and with the perforations DOWN, stretch the frame laterally until the bridge is close to the table, being careful not to twist the frame itself.

5. Once cooled, submerge the bottom of the frame into the water for 5 seconds, then insert the top for another 5seconds and begin to prebend the frame down the middle.

6. Now, remove the frame and place it against your nose at the desired height and begin to mold it around the nose and cheeks. OPTIONAL: if you are concerned that you may burn the skin, keep a mask on during the molding process.

7. Once cooled and the frame seems to be well adapted, you may use a sharp blade like an exacto knife, bard parker, or carpenter’s knife to cut the perforations. Please exercise SAFE CUTTING PRACTICES.

8. Finally, unpleate the mask, insert the internal frame into the mask, insert the mask and frame into the outer-ring, and lock to two units together.

9. You may know dawn the mask as you normally would. You will need to secure elastic bands (linked below) to the MaskFrame hooks to secure it with active pressure to the face.

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